This content is sourced from @Worth Buying APP and opinions represent author only｜Author: Mu Shaoai
Any man should have a suit, and a pair of comfortable and beautiful leather shoes is an integral part of suit.
There is a lot of information on internet about types of leather shoes, and a lot of it is wrong.
First, a more accurate classification map:
As shown in picture, there are so many types of leather shoes for men that this image cannot cover them all. You don't need to know about all types of leather shoes. Today we will only talk about most common types of leather shoes worn by ordinary people. I guarantee that after reading this article, you will know more about leather shoes than anyone else.
Before we start, let's look at a picture of a leather shoe, remember name of each piece of leather shoe in picture, and then mention it in text.
Question 1. What shoes should I wear?
Before we start talking about shoe types, we need to know that there are two main styles: oxfords and derbies.
Refer to picture below and look at laces. To put it simply: Oxford is what can be buttoned up, and Derby is what can be unfastened.
Some people ask why they all look alike but fall into two categories?
Because oxford laces are very well suited to instep, if foot is wide or instep is high (Asians usually have a higher instep), wearing oxfords for a long time will squeeze feet and cause them discomfort. This moment should be experienced by many friends who have bought foreign-made ready-made oxfords. If instep is too high, it will be unsightly if center seam of upper oxford flap does not sit down and shoe deforms.
Derby top flaps can be split and laces can be used to adjust tightness. The level of comfort will be greatly increased, but degree of formality will be reduced, but generally speaking, ordinary people rarely have opportunity to participate. dress code black tie.Formal evening.
Come on, get in, Master Mu will drive:
First: Oxfords
Oxfords are a timeless theme among classic shoes. As shown in picture, method of identification is that holes for lace, that is, flaps, are located close to each other, and tongue is wrapped under top. When you tie laces, entire upper looks like a single unit, with no tongue or gaps. So he looks more beautiful and strict. In addition, colors are now more varied, including red, tan, tan, wine red, oxblood, and various rubbing colors.
You can say that how many colors of lipstick your girlfriend has, as many colors as men's leather shoes. (Send this article to your girlfriend. Your girlfriend's lipstick is enough to buy a leather shoe. That's what I told my girlfriend.)
PS: Once oxfords are on, it's best to just fit them over valve seams rather than tearing instep or overlapping them.
Oxfords usually come in following categories:
1. Shoes with three hinges and seams
Three-joint leather shoes are most widely used style, and of course most widely used color is black. Toe cowhide is usually made from relatively thick and wear-resistant cowhide with a top layer. wrinkle when walking, use softer leather for extra comfort. When Mu Shao was still studying, he wore three-hinged oxfords handmade by a local shoemaker. He wore them for 3 years without repair. Finally, rubber sole could not stand it, and upper did not wear out. . More advanced shoes will now use Goodyear technology, soles can be changed, and color scheme is now more varied, including red, brown, brown, wine red and bull's blood.
2. Oxford with rounded ends
Wing-tip Oxford means that toe is fused to a piece of leather that extends to body of shoe. Usually carved. Closed tops are oxford shoes by section, but we usually refer to such shoes as carved brogues. (Please note: brogues are not a type of shoe, but process by which a shoemaker processes shoes. Oxfords have brogues, derbies also have brogues, Chelsea boots have brogues. We'll talk about brogues separately a little later) when viewed from above and look like letter "W" or "M" from a bird's eye view. This splicing makes oxfords a little more casual, but they are also dress shoes. One of my favorite styles.
3. One-Piece Oxfords
The top and body of one-piece oxfords are cut from a single piece of cowhide without any seams. Please look at your shoes, they are usually made up of several pieces of leather, toe box is made of good leather and rest of pieces are not so good. One-piece oxford shoes use only one piece of cowhide to complete shape of whole shoe. The appearance looks very smooth and neat, and quality and workmanship of leather is extremely high. Usually only one or two pieces of cowhide can be made of leather. not so big. And they are all handmade, which requires a lot of time and money. Because occasion to wear these shoes must be very formal, we usually don't wear them, just look at them. Do not buy domestic whole leather, leather quality control is too poor.
4. Plain toe oxfords
The plain side is an oxford, which is made from two pieces of leather, upper and heel, without three seams. Also no brogue. The top is clean and there are no stitches, oxfords are more classic - toe is solid, and requirements for leather materials are relatively high.
Second: Derby
The English name for Derby shoes is not only called Derby, but also called Blucher and Gibson. The story begins in 1850. What is this origin story? It's a long story. . . This is rarely printed, so we won't talk about it. We are talking about classification of shoes, and we will leave story for later.
Regular people usually confuse derby shoes with oxfords, and everyone just needs to pay attention to laces. The flaps of oxfords are sealed, but derby is not sealed. In addition, two pieces of leather are made to wear laces to adjust tension, which is more convenient for Asians with a high instep. Therefore, most people in China wear derby.
Like oxfords, derbies also have several categories. You can see. One piece less than oxfords.
Third: Brocs create brogues
A block is not a shoe, but a craft. Oxford has Bullock, Derby has Bullock and Boots has Bullock. The shoes and boots of this craft are mainly made from different kinds of leather. For sake of beauty, when the leather is cut, some decorations are made called brogue crafts. The leather cut in this way usually comes with fine teeth and engraved holes.
The picture above shows oxfords with brogues.
When brogues were invented they were for a long time considered for walking in fresh air or in countryside. These cut holes were for ventilation and craftsmen at time would simply punch a few holes casually. The toe and heel are made of relatively durable cowhide, which is relatively hard and wear resistant. For added comfort, more flexible leather is sewn into upper that needs to be flexed. As craftsmanship improves and carvings become more and more refined, Bullock gradually enters category of classic shoes. Nowadays, many formal oxfords also use carved brogues. After all, Brock's products are prettier, brighter, and more appealing to consumers.
1. Quarter brogue
Quarter Bullock is simplest and most discreet. Only perforations are added at junction of skin of three seams, note that there are no threads in other places. And only three-hinged shoes with a closed toe have a quarter brogue, and there is no quarter brogue on winglet.
1. Semibroke
Semi-brogues are based on quarter-brogues with carved holes at the toe. Half Brock also does not include a wingtip.
1. All Brock
Full brogues are simply a combination of a semi-brogue and a classic wingtip, also known as dovetail carving. The toe has a curved "W" shaped leather insert, while fenders flare out on both sides of top and reach to arch. or a heel.
Full brogues are also divided into short brogues and long brogues.
The winged tail of short-winged bull only reaches for shoemaker.
Longwing Bullock has redesigned wing tail to reach to heel of shoe.
Fourth: Monks
Originally, monks were worn by a group of monks in a monastery. They can be traced back to 150 years ago. It is said that monks in monastery were in vogue at that time, which is why monks are also called monks.
In modern times, monks are becoming more and more beautiful, and they are already close to dress shoes, especially two-button monks. Double-button monks in general look more voluminous and detailed, rather than monotonous. has both a formal and rugged look. They can usually be used as dress shoes and every man is advised to start with a pair.
Be careful when wearing: monks should be paired with slightly shorter trousers that can reach to instep, and metal buckle should be visible. Mu Shao has long legs, and all trousers are just right before getting up.
One thing that needs to be mentioned is that in some Mediterranean countries, probably due to hotter weather and rougher seas, they no longer fasten metal buckles, although they still wear suits even in 40 degrees .
Five: Idler
There are two theories about origin of loafers: one is that they were improved by Norwegians on basis of shoes made from skin of Indian animals, and other is that they are indoor shoes worn by British royal family. Personally, I believe in second statement.
Loafers have no laces, low top and low heel or just a flat sole. The ankles are open, so no socks with moccasins. For decoration, a strip of decorative leather like a saddle is usually added to top. Moccasins are usually made from soft leather for a comfortable fit and suede/leather is usually main material.
Introduce a few types of more common loafers
Set as head image
1. Penny Loafers Penny Loafers
The most famous style of loafers was originally a representative of preppy style. In 1950s, for convenience, students often slipped a penny (penny) coin into slit of top of a loafer and took it out under a telephone booth to make a call, hence name.
2. Tassel loafers Tassel loafers
It is said to have originated in Hollywood, and it is also said to have originated in Ivy League in 1920s. But well-tailored fringe loafers look good when you wear them in your spare time in summer.
3. TheBit slacker
This style has been around since 1960s. He became famous thanks to Gucci. Gucci added one to two horse buttons to top of loafers, and it's still popular today.
4. Peas shoes THE DRIVING MOCS
This type of shoe is an improvement from Indian moccasins. A plastic sole has been added to sole to make shoe a little more wearable. If you often wear it outdoors, then sole wears out quickly. The most famous is TOD shoes with polka dots.
5. BOATS
Boating shoes were first worn by sailors working on deck. There are two holes on inside of shoe that make it easier for water to drain out of shoe. Since skin is deformed after getting wet in water, heel is secured with a rope.
In 1980s, it gradually became a casual shoe for everyday people. Usually worn in summer.
Remember one thing: you must not wear socks when wearing moccasins, and you must show your ankles! Like this:
Question 2. How are our shoes made?
Although we wear shoes, we also need to know craftsmanship of shoes, a simple manufacturing process to make it easier for us to care for them in future, and be able to distinguish quality of shoes when buying shoes to see which shoes are good shoes. Which shoes can't be bought.
1. CEMENTING
Sticky shoe technology is not a technology at all. Simply put, just glue upper part of leather directly to sole and you're done. Usually, this technique can only be used on shoes with soft soles and thin, flexible leather. These crafts make shoes quickly and cheaply, so quality is not good, mass-produced shoes. So if you look at sole, there are no seams at all. Of course, some shoes have decorative seams on sides of shoe.
2. BLAKE FIRMWARE
The inseam, as name implies, when sewing leather of upper and midsole to sole (outsole), thread does not go beyond edge of boot, but inside boot so that people cannot see seams on outside of shoe, therefore it is called inseam. If you turn shoe over and look at sole, you can see seams. This type of shoe with internal stitching is relatively economical and comfortable to wear, it is recommended to start with one or two pairs per trial.
3. GOODYEAR WELT
Goodyear stitching is commonly used on highest quality leather shoes. When sewing shoes, use inside edge and outside edge for double stitching, upper and sole are firmly bonded together and can withstand any impact and twisting. A cavity is formed between midsole and sole, which can be isolated from moisture, and a layer of cork is laid to ensure maximum breathability of leather shoes.
In addition to providing a thorough perspiration function, natural marks will also form on soles. During first 15 days or so, when customers wear them, force of feet causes soles to change shape and become a pair of shoes. "Personal outsole" follows shape of foot, providing comfort when walking.
In today's world, it takes 4 to 6 months from measuring foot to receiving final product, and over 300 processes are required to personally service Goodyear's most outstanding handcrafted shoes of highest quality. That's why Goodyear's handmade welted shoes are known as "hand-carved works of art."
Goodyear craftsmanship leather shoes tend to be heavier and there are seams on upper and outsole which are also subdivided into Goodyear storm seams, these moves are more complex and we can talk about specific moves in a separate issue.
Goodyear Storm
4.Norwegian
This type of seam is most difficult and durable, it is suitable for places with a harsh climate in northern Europe.
Of course, there are several types of Norwegian stitches, such as ordinary Norwegian stitches, Norwegian chain stitches, and some sewing names named by small families of shoemakers.
These shoes generally cost 5 figures or more, and workmanship is more difficult. All Norwegian seams are hand-sewn and made to order. You can open a separate lecture and we'll talk about it later.
This is end of our acquaintance with types of leather shoes for today. If anyone is interested, next time we'll talk about boots or Goodyear.