Maybe I want to buy autumn/winter "outfit" earlier. Recently, many friends have left messages asking for boots.
Friends who know Ye Zi should also know that I'm into boots. I have been talking a lot in last two or three months.
But every time I talk about niche boots, many friends "say": Well, you're right, I still choose Red Wing, I still choose rhubarb boots, I still choose Martin boots. .. ···
It's not really surprising that popular brands (boots) may not be too unique, but they all know point and take less "risks" than niche brands, as do conventional Martin boots. pair and change another pair, beautiful and safe.
▲ Dr. Martens
For Martin boots, friends naturally know a lot, whether it's a simple height with a few holes or a deeper technical connotation.
However, Ye Zi wants to ask: Is Dr. Martens really only one who can choose "Martin's boots"?
The answer is definitely no, because there are many more on one treasure...
It is well known that only Dr. Martens are genuine Martin boots, other than that, almost everything else on internet is a sneaky fake.
Of course, almost does not represent everyone. There is another brand in world that can produce their "Martens boots" in same way as Dr. Martens, and this is Solovair.
How do you look?
Solovair belongs to shoe brand of famous British shoe factory NPS. This shoe factory, with a proud shoe history, hails from Northampton, world-famous shoe-making holy land. It was founded in 1881 and started making military boots for British government.
If there is no NPS, we may not see these classic Martin boots.
Everyone knows story of "Martin's shoes". It goes back to German doctor Klaus Martens, who accidentally injured his leg. A pair of leather air-cushioned boots.
The last doctor sold this design to an Englishman named R. Griggs. In 1959, to expand scale of production, R. Griggs organized NPS online.
Just one year later, in 1960, most iconic boots in Dr. Martens, an 8-hole Martin 1460 boot, was created by NPS, creating legend of Dr. Martens, which is still popular today.
▲ Dr. Martens 1460
However, as one of most famous shoe factories in Northampton, NPS, which has a long history of military boot technology, has more to offer Dr. Martens than just a pair of 1460s.
The most famous NPS shoe manufacturing process is "Goodyear", but since Dr. Martens added an air cushion structure, he improved it as well. After stitching upper and inner sole, air cushion is directly glued. Then use metal heat sealing process and Z-welt to sew shoe body and entire sole together, which is different from the regular Goodyear, which ensures a more durable Dr. Martens.
Among them, yellow stitching has become a classic print of all Martin boots (shoes).
Because NPS was authorized by R. Griggs, until 1995 it was fully official Dr. Martens. After 1995, due to restructuring of Dr. Martens, both sides also ended cooperation, and now Martin boots are mainly made in China and Thailand.
NPS also developed its own shoe brand Solovair, producing its own "Martin boots", but brand was directly renamed to plain Derby Boots (Derby Boots).
It should be noted here that many people say that British Martin boots after 2003 do not exist.
Actually, NPS and Dr. Martens did not end their partnership completely.
Those who are familiar with Dr. Martens know that it also has a "Made in England" offshoot, and boots from that offshoot are still made by NPS, and some of collaborative styles by Dr. Martens is also from factory.
It's just that in China, when it comes to "Martin's boots", few people know about NPS (Solovair), which is relatively small.
You may think that they all look alike, so you don't need to know about it.
But fact is that Soloveir seems to agree with Dr. Martens, but there are a lot of differences in details.
Solovair's "Martin" boots are very simple. There is no "146x" model similar to Dr. Martens, but they differ in number of holes. The most famous are 8-hole Derby boots.
There are also 6 holes and 11 holes.
▲ Solovair 8 Hole Derby Boots
It should be noted that we cannot consider Solovair as an "improved version" of Martin boots, both have their own characteristics, and even price of Dr.Martens will be somewhat more expensive.
The most obvious difference between two is stitching on hem of boot and logo ring on heel.
As mentioned above, stitches of Dr. Martens are yellow, and Soloveir's boots are also yellow threads, but sometimes grey-green stitches are added. At same time, seam between Solovair valve and upper should be relatively reversed.
Secondly, Ye Zi thinks real difference between two is rubber outsole.
As you can see, Solovair's translucent rubber outsole allows you to observe air cushion inside, and texture of sole changes intensely. It is an oil-resistant and non-slip air cushion sole specially developed by brand, known as "the most non-slip rubber sole in world", has excellent anti-slip and corrosion resistance.
And sole of Solovair still adheres to traditional craftsmanship of being stitched along strip and finished by hand. Therefore, in comparison with sole, Solovair should be better.
▲ Top: Solovair, bottom: Dr. Martens
Furthermore, difference in shoe silhouette is a key factor in different styles of two models.
The toe of Solovair should be more upturned and midfoot should be clearly retracted, i.e. transition line of waist of shoe is clearly curved and contour is stronger.
▲ Left: Solovair (8 holes), right: Dr. Martens (1460)
In terms of style, we can fully understand Solovair as Dr. Martens' "retro series".
In fact, from all angles, Solovair can be considered a good entry-level boot brand, be it level of craftsmanship or value for money, and our understanding of this should not be limited to "OEM Martin shoes". , excellent.
In addition to Derby Boots, there are many more boots worthy of everyone's attention.
Anyway, Martin boots are not easy to wear. If you're afraid of a painful burn-in, check out Solovair's Monkey Boots, which are also a brand icon for One of boots.
Monkey Boots is also what everyone calls a "short face". The flap extends all way to toe of shoe, revealing a little "head" that looks a bit ugly and pretty.
But unlike other brands, Solovair here is same as desert boots. Most of them are ankle boots with seven holes. The body of boots is more cropped. Elegant, not so edgy and weird. like other boots with a short top, but more refined.
And Troging Boots Soloveira (Troging Boots).
Although carved brogues are not considered formal use in leather shoes, adding this element to boots will have an unusually mature and sophisticated taste. The reason why few young people want to try on carved brogue boots.
In Solovair, you don't have to worry about that.
Also, brand added an air-cushioned non-slip sole to carved boots. The translucent rubber material can not only create a stronger textural effect on carved boots, but also neutralize congestion of carved boots well, leaving a trace. The yuppie temperament can also be well combined with a small elegant street feeling.
The last one is a small piece of carved derby shoes.
Compared to regular formal derby shoes, Solovair derby shoes look a bit awkward due to thick rubber sole and rounded toe, which is not very elegant.
On other hand, this "flaw" makes it feel retro. If you want to opt for a pair of retro leather shoes that are not so serious, I think Solovair's Derby is a good choice.