Hi everyone, this is Suit Club.
Many men love to wear suits, because a man in a suit not only looks handsome, but also makes everyone think that this man is cultured, educated, gentlemanly and authoritative person. A suit is best choice of menswear for more formal occasions. In West, a suit is a strictly formal dress. Wearing a suit has its own rules, and now it has become a kind of culture, but also a kind of etiquette.
Etiquette includes dressing, socializing, socializing, emotional intelligence, and more. Dress etiquette is an important part of social life. The suit is orthodox and concise, and today it has evolved into most standard and versatile garment in world.
# Today I will show you classification of suits
High quality costumes have different styles. In traditional classification of costumes, costumes are divided into British, Italian and American. Each type of version has different outlines, features.
This article will help you understand version of costume by characteristics, benefits, suitable occasions and suitable people of each version~
01 I English costume
English Hourglass Shape
Britain is birthplace of a gentleman's culture and traditional suits, emphasizing voluminous lines of shoulders and simple and neat cut.
When it comes to British costumes, one must be inseparable from famous place - Savile Row, London, England. It is birthplace of tailor-made suits and represents highest standards in industry. In 18th century, a Savile Row tailor invented tuxedo jacket, which became formal attire of British nobility and high society for dinner, and modern suit gradually took shape.
1) Functions
The British tend to wear wider collars due to their longer faces. The biggest feature of "hourglass tailoring" is sharp waist, upper and lower proportions of shoulders and hips are relatively balanced, and gap is small.
Sophisticated but not ostentatious, British-style suits will radiate a gentlemanly vibe wherever they go. The colors are mostly cool and main features are single-breasted, peaked lapels and center back slits. Fabrics tend to be thicker, which is mainly due to climate in UK. Fabrics made in UK are relatively thick. From a visual standpoint, suit will be straighter and crisper.
The basic body shape of British men is that upper and lower bodies are relatively balanced, not as muscular as European men, and they are often lean and tall, with a small head and well-developed shoulders and hips that fit an hourglass. cut. The main contour is an inverted trapezoid, and there are vents on sides or in middle of back for easy movement. Three-dimensional and angular shoulder line, narrow armhole design makes arm line beautiful, and waist line is close to three-dimensional line. The bill pocket is unique to English suit. The original intention was for British gentlemen to listen to opera tickets, and today's British costume still retains this feature. The cufflinks are neatly placed. In addition, English-style suit also has a retro feature of rolled up trousers. Legend has it that when it suddenly began to rain while a certain nobleman was watching races, he rolled up his trousers so as not to get wet. it has become fashionable. At same time, length of British suit tends to cover buttocks, while maintaining a strict and gentlemanly image.
2) Benefits
Simple and neat cut, which can easily outline body line, it is better to change wearer's figure, emphasize high and straight chest outline, and highlight wearer's elegant gentlemanly temperament.
3) Suitable for occasion
English suits are suitable for occasions when gentlemanly style is required. For example, when visiting clients, an English costume can not only reflect strictness and solemnity, but also not seem too catchy and create a sense of distance,
On occasions that reflect gentlemanly style, such as corporate governance meetings, group meetings, or when dealing with some day-to-day management matters, it is best to display a formal but not overly forceful pose.
4) Suitable for crowd
Tall, lean, with wide hips, proportional body proportions, people striving for elegance, intelligence and subtext.
02 I Italian costume
Italianstyle inverted triangle cutcut
Italy is a romantic country. Speaking of Italy, one cannot fail to mention Milan Fashion Week. Milan Fashion Week is one of four famous fashion weeks in world. Therefore, Italian-style costumes are a crystallization of fashion and romance. They are colorful and sensual. The design is irresistible.
Italian costumes are relatively soft, mainly due to method of cutting. With regard to tailoring, Italian costumes are divided into three schools: Milanese, Roman and Neapolitan. The shoulders of Italian suits are relatively loose, mostly without shoulder pads, which are famous Neapolitan shoulders.
The height of Italians is different from those of British Isles and European continent: they tend to be shorter, with a strong upper body and a much thinner lower body. Therefore, in Italy, especially in area from Florence to Naples in southern Italy, a popular style of suit is one that exaggerates shoulders, relaxes chest, but pulls up the hem, creating a masculine "∀" (turn A). silhouette.
1) Functions
Italian costume is a second skin, demonstrating strong and powerful arms of a man. The silhouette has a T-shape, which emphasizes width of shoulders and width of back. At first glance, emphasis is on broad shoulders, a taut waist and hips. Generally speaking, Italian suits have a looser waistline, thicker shoulder pads, no back slits, bold and bright colors, and cuff buttons.
Another difference between a British-style suit and an Italian-style suit is breast pocket (where a pocket square fits). sailboat. It is called a boat bag, which means: smooth sailing.
Neapolitan style: this is most distinctive Italian suit, soft and stretchy, with no or only thin shoulder pads, and it looks like a thin sweatshirt, soft as nothing.
Roman style: Known as "men's armour", strength of Roman style is mainly reflected in extremely thick pauldrons and strong chest padding. Because it was invented by a Roman tailor and got its name because it became popular in continental Europe.
Milanese suit: closest to English suit, with wide double slits at hem. The shoulders have a certain slope, with thinner shoulder pads, chest is fully lined, and waistline is soft. Generally, tops are mostly single-breasted and double-buttoned, with double slits, and trousers are usually single-tucked. (fold). Milanese suits are more rounded.
2) Benefits
Whether it's choice of fabric or design, Italian suits aim for lightness and freedom, with elegance in casualness, while Italian version is freer and more romantic. This version, with a slightly longer hem, is very suitable for tall, muscular men, even with a little belly, well groomed.
3) Suitable for occasion
It is appropriate to wear when showing owner's dominance and arrogance, and can also sometimes be used as a substitute for a dress. For example, to participate in commercial activities as a protagonist, you need to improve your aura and self-confidence, or other points to demonstrate authority. Italian-style suits typically feature four- or six-button double-breasted collars and lapel collars. The wider collar, higher status. This is the crystallization of fashion. The stand-alone dress has a strong sense of elegance and romance.Suitable for receptions and banquets.,wedding.
4) Suitable for crowd
The sense of roundness and fullness above chest is accentuated by cut, while proportions of large head and small body are lightened, successfully maximizing strengths and avoiding weaknesses. Therefore, Italian inverted triangle is also a direction in tailoring that is recommended for Asians, for those who are fit, strong and want to chase aura and authority.
03 I American costume
AmericanstyleH type cut Cut
Compared to elegance and formality of first two, American suits are "relaxed"
Our first impression of United States is Statue of Liberty, a country that loves freedom. In same way, their costumes are also relatively loose. Americans have relatively strong bodies and strive for a free, relaxed and comfortable lifestyle at heart. Therefore, they have improved previously related costumes into straight H-shaped suits, but visual effect is a little overblown. , mainly because Americans are more muscular.
1) Functions
Due to American character and dressing habits, top and bottom are almost same width, with a flat waist and a straight hem. Straight-shouldered silhouette with thin or no shoulder pads, no waistline, and one back slit. The overall shape is loose and H-shaped. He was born in UK and interprets his unique freedom and unrestrained style. Pragmatic style.
2) Benefits
American-inspired suits emphasize loose and straight shape of H in silhouette, showing a masculine casual and relaxed feel. It usually has soft and sloping shoulder lines, dressy and chic shape, can be unbuttoned, dress shape is square, no waist, loose and easy to move.
3) Suitable for occasion
American-style suits typically feature frilly collars, single-breasted buttons, and side slits. They are more functional and suitable for any occasion and any figure. American suits are loose and voluminous, more suitable for everyday occasions.
Because American suit emphasizes comfort and freedom, it is also suitable for casual wear. Wearing it when managers and employees are interacting and showing closeness can reduce feelings of distance.
4) Suitable for crowd
The loose version of American suits is very tolerant of figure, and style is more casual, so it is suitable for most people to wear.
04 Japanese costume
CurrentGeneration Improved Y Type Cut strong>cut
Although Japanese-style costumes do not belong to traditional classification of costumes, they also have a great influence in world.
1) Functions
There are no wide shoulders and a thin waist. It can be said that this version is an inverted triangle, modified according to Asian physique: shoulder width is very similar to Italian one, but chest is fuller and does not rely on natural strong muscles, but shape of chest of clothes forms a contour; hem is narrower, basically insisting on no slits, which suits tight crotch that Asians usually have. Generally speaking, it is mostly single-breasted, with no slits at back, and it is easier to show shape of legs in trousers.
2) Benefits
Japanese custom western styling corrects spaciousness of American version. Based on American style, it is tailored to Asian body type, and design is more suitable for Asian body type. Men. The details are better finished, most of them are single breasted and fit better on Asians.
3) Suitable for occasion
It is suitable for some fashion and casual art exhibitions, fashion shows, concerts, etc. It can be worn on occasions full of artistic atmosphere.
4) Suitable for crowd
Japanese costumes are more suitable for little Asians.
The choice of suit fit depends mainly on body type and occasion in which it is worn.
For more formal occasions
You can choose Italian or British suits, more elegant and gentlemanly;
For a more casual occasion
Choose American wide version and add some technical improvements,
For example, graffiti, embroidery, collage, etc.;
If you are more confident in your body,
You can try on British clothes,
His crisp version and fit,
This can reflect your ideal figure well.
#How to wear a men's suit
- The dress is best paired with a white shirt, black tie, black socks and black leather shoes.
- If you wear casual clothes, top and bottom of suit should be same color and same material. For formal events, top and bottom of suit should not be more than three colors.
- If you are wearing a single-breasted suit, you do not need to wear a tie. If you are wearing a suit, you must wear a tie; if you are wearing a double-breasted suit, you must wear a tie.
- When wearing a tie, tighten knot and secure neck of tie. The outer page of tie should be longer than inner page.
- The button on collar of a shirt must be buttoned when wearing a tie and unbuttoned when not wearing a tie.
- When wearing a sweater or vest, tie must be worn underneath.
- When wearing a single-breasted suit, top button may or may not be buttoned, and inner button may be buttoned; When wearing a double-breasted suit, two buttons should be buttoned, with at least bottom button being buttoned. be buttoned up.
- The top pocket of suit is not suitable for ballpoint and fountain pens.
- The pockets of suit should not be too large, do not put anything at all, a handkerchief at most, do not put your hands in pockets of suit jacket when walking.
- Shirt cuffs must be visible behind suit cuffs and must be buttoned.
#Let's enjoy gentlemen's fashionable street photos~
A thousand waters and a thousand mountains is always love, can you pay attention to it?