Hi everyone, this is Suit Club.
The suit, almost uncrowned king of kingdom of menswear, classic and elegant, has become hallmark of a gentleman. Especially in important occasions, it becomes best dress choice, such as weddings, business meetings, banquets and other events. For hundreds of years suit was restless and sea changed, but suit was always resistant. What is its magical power? Today editor will take you to past and present of the costume's life to find out!
About origin of costume
Costumes, also known as "suits" and "western clothes", originated in Europe and are an imported culture.
Where are you from? This is one of those questions that people love to ask. So where did suit come from? There are two main theories:
Folk version: The structure of costume comes from German national costumes that came south from northern Europe. It is said that at that time it was worn by Western European fishermen. They lived with sea all year round and earned from sea. It was convenient to fish by wearing loose collars and fewer buttons. It is based on principle of separating and combining structure of activity characteristics of human body and body shape, and forms method of sewing clothes with folds (preservation), splitting and splitting, and sets popular model of clothing structure into future.
Royal Edition: Costume The traditional dress of British royal family. It is a men's three-piece suit in same fabric, consisting of a jacket, vest and trousers. In form, it continues main form of men's dress, refers to Orthodox attire in everyday wear and is used in a variety of cases.
In fact, development of costume has gone through more than 300 years and 4 stages, it has witnessed a history of change, concentrated painstaking work of countless craftsmen, and finally evolved into its current form. Here, let's repeat history of transformation of this costume with you.
First Stage Classic Costume
The classic suit (justocorp) was popular in 1670s-1770s, at which time suits began to be cut from pieces of fabric with concept of a three-dimensional structure and sewn into garments, which was a significant difference from former flat cut. The famous Newton is a witness of this period.
Newton in Justaucorps
Artist Hyacinthe Rigaud
The title of piece is "Louis XIV"
By second half of 17th century, Louis XIV can be seen in this famous portrait of Louis XIV wearing a velvet coronation robe trimmed with ermine and embellished with golden lilies. This robe is prototype of suit - Justaucorps.
Unlike previous garments, it is based on principle of separating and combining structure of activity characteristics of human body and shape of body, forming a method of sewing clothes from darts, pieces and cuts.
Gorgeous classic suit
Phase 2 men's dress
The men's frock coat existed around 1770-1870, and its popularity was associated with sports that were popular at that time.
His evolution mainly includes a tuxedo, a riding suit, and a morning dress.
In 1838, horse racing at Ascot, a city in east of England, became popular (Ascot is still world's most famous sacred horse racing site), and a type of dress specifically designed for watching horse races developed. more comfortable to wear, this is a later riding jacket.
The knee-length frock coat can be considered prototype of modern evening dress. The main forms of this period are shown in figure below:
Level 3 bag uniform
The handbag appeared in United States in 1870s, when era of frock coats came.
So this suit pocket jacket: no structure, no shoulder pads, no pleats at waist and no waist, like a fabric pocket hanging over shoulder.
Edison in Sack Suit
These clothes are often from brands Brooks Brothers and J.Press, and they are still most popular baggy suit brands.
Let's take Brooks Brothers brand as an example to see evolution of bag suit.
In 1918, Brooks Brothers introduced single-breasted, three-button, natural-shoulder suit, also known as Brooksy (Brooks style), which is main type of business suit and one of modern suit traditions.
Three buttons of a single-breasted suit are fastened only on middle one. The typical small V is upside down and horizontal rectangular pocket is covered with flap pockets. The whole costume is filled with a youthful atmosphere.
In 1961, Brooks Brothers introduced two-button suit, which became widespread and established main style of international business suits.
Level Four Casual Suit
The main part of lounge jacket is a casual suit, it usually does not take elements of a dress and is completely casual. Clothing becomes lighter and more comfortable.
In 1860, casual three-piece suit became casual wear, and English name became Lounge Suit. This was first time that leisure suit officially appeared on historical scene.
Casual three-piece suit
In 1896, tweed casual suit became popular, which marked beginning of formation of modern casual suit.
Influenced by the King of Wales, Scottish-inspired tracksuits came into vogue and became iconic outfits for Hollywood stars.
Hollywood star in a tweed suit
At same time, tracksuits named after Blazer suits appeared. Its original feature was double row metal buckles, and later single row three metal buckles were added to their basic style.
The 1960s were dominated by rock music, rebellion was key word of period, suits became very tight, and flared trousers became a cult phrase.
Popular 1960s suit style
The 1980s were dominated by retro style, but unlike traditional style, this period was more about comfort, more freedom, larger lapels and lower buckles.
Loose suits popular in 1980s
Today, costumes are not only a formality and solemnity, but in addition to preserving original functions and traditions, male interpretation of costumes has shown more possibilities.
For example, a suit can be paired with slacks and jeans, with a hooded sweater and sneakers inside, and overall feel is casual and trendy, full of vitality.
This is how costumes move step by step from past to present. In future, costumes will have endless possibilities waiting for us to explore and observe together.
Costumes for different occasions
◎Dress for formal occasions
To attend official events --- banquets, official meetings, receptions, weddings and funerals, evening social events, dark suits must be worn, shirts must be worn with white-lined ties, and ties with regular patterns or patterns. color contrast should not be too strong.
◎Dress for semi-formal events
Semi-formal occasions - going to work, lunch, general visits, high-level meetings and other large events held during day, you can wear medium, light or brighter dark color suits, shirts can be worn in solid colors. , elegant and suits. Color-matched shirts and ties require a regular pattern or pattern, or a plain monochrome tie.
◎Dress for informal events
For informal occasions --- traveling, visiting friends, etc. -- you can dress more casually. You can choose costumes in bright colors, with bright colors and great patterns. They can be combined freely, but bright red and bright red ties should not be used.
Clothing for all seasons
Everything comes to life, and prosperous weather radiates a relaxed and warm mood. Colors this season can be any group on spectrum, with cool to warm transitions being most common. For example, beige, light green. The texture of fabric is dominated by dense and elastic worsted fabrics. The structure supports two matched suits
Finally, I'd like to share some business suit tips with you and teach you how to dress a gentleman in one minute! !
At business events, appropriate attire is very important. Inappropriate clothing directly reduces your first impression of others, while a decent and lavish suit can help you establish yourself in first place. The image and brand of your company will directly determine your next transactions and work.
Many people think they can't wear suits because they're not fit, and only men with strong bodies and full pecs look good in suits. Actually, it's because most people don't match suits with each other, so they look awkward and out of place.
So how to wear a business suit?
#Small body (thick type)
The suit should be fitted, too loose will look messy and even shorter.
Tip 1. Prefer vertical stripes in pattern of fabric, which visually lengthen proportions of body.
Tip 2. Keep jacket sleeves as short as possible to expose more shirt sleeves and create long arms.
Tip 3. Tight pants with a high waist will make your legs look slimmer.
#Small figure (thin type)
A man of this height lacks a sense of volume in clothes, so he needs to compensate for this with style of suit.
Tip 1. A double-breasted three-piece suit with a wide collar will make figure plumper.
Tip 2: Black and dark colored tops are not suitable as they will get thinner and thinner. And gray, grey-black, light gray, etc. will look thicker.
Tip 3. It is best to create a sharp color contrast between coat and shirt, coat and trousers and visually increase thickness, and the overall look will be more energetic.
Clothing materials are mostly twill and plaid, and texture of wool can add volume. Whether you're tall or short, don't go for straight stripes, horizontal stripes help your body visually stretch horizontally and increase sense of volume.
You can really envy a tall and thin person, in principle, he looks good in everything. However, it should be noted that point of wearing clothes for tall people is not to appear tall, but to perfectly represent proportions of body.
Vertical stripes will have a stretching effect, but if proportions are very good, vertical stripes will have little effect. If you feel like your waistline is too long, don't try.
Sleeves are the exact opposite of small ones. Small ones should opt for suits with short sleeves and more revealing shirts, while tall ones shouldn't show off too many shirt sleeves to keep their upper body from being too bulging. long.
Tip 1. Three-piece or double-breasted suits can make you look fuller;
Tip 2: Avoid dark suits, they will make you look slimmer. Gray stripes have visual effect of horizontal elongation and look thicker;
Tip 3. Matching coats and shirts create a stark contrast and add volume and length to the upper body.
For a body with lateral development, most direct solution is to reduce transverse area
Tip 1. Light and thin fabrics, mostly straight stripes, try to minimize visual feeling of heaviness;
Tip 2. It is best to choose high-waisted straight pants that will not only hide fat, but also reshape legs.
Tip 3. Avoid brightly colored suits that will make you look bloated, and dark-colored suits will make you slimmer.
A thick or slightly plump body develops horizontally, so a wide tie should be chosen when choosing a tie. A thin tie on a wide body looks sparse and is not visible from afar. The pattern on tie can be twill or polka dot, which can effectively modify a slightly wider body.
As a rule, fat will have a stomach, wearing trousers is very problematic. The straight-cut trousers are first of all, hips and waist are enlarged, which can wrap thick PP very well. The second waist of pants is a high-waisted design that can cover stomach as much as possible, and third is straight-cut pants. The straight line of pants can hide flesh and change shape of legs.
You should pay attention not only to shape of trousers, but also to suspenders. Set aside belt for a while, because belt will widen waist line, so use suspenders to visually stretch upwards to “look slimmer”< /p>
After choosing right costume, appearance of costume is 60% complete, and following matching details are key points
#Selection of accessories
Tip 1. Whether it's a tie or a bow tie, color should be in harmony with suit and shirt; a plain suit goes with a striped shirt, and a plain or patterned tie; a striped suit goes well with a plain shirt and tie.
Tip 2. The length of tie should be optimal, and most suitable position should reach the belt.
Tip 3. If you need a tie clip, place it between second and third buttons. If you're wearing a three piece suit, you don't need a tie clip.
Tip 4. Never button up last button of your jacket. The same goes for inner vest. The last button of suit is called "never". When you sit down, you need to unbutton your jacket, and when you need to get up, it is customary to button it up.
Tip 5. Formal wear should not show calves, so socks should be long.
Tip 6: In general, socks should be chosen according to color of suit. Generally speaking, it's best to have one color darker than suit. Don't wear white!
Tip7: Socks are best made from silk and cotton, thick socks are not suitable for suits.
The vast majority of leather shoes come in two colors: black and brown. Black suit with black or dark brown shoes. Dark gray suit with black or dark brown leather shoes. Gray suit with brown shoes. Regardless of depth of blue suit, it goes better with brown leather shoes.
It is also not recommended to put things in two pockets under suit. Trouser pockets are slightly better and can hold a small amount of small items. But do not put anything in back pocket of your trousers, while you bend over, you see all cards.
A thousand waters and a thousand mountains is always love, can you pay attention to it?