Hi everyone, this is Suit Club.
Suit Fitting seems like a very simple and straightforward problem, but many people often ignore fitting due to pursuit of style and design style.
Indeed, there is nothing wrong with choosing a suitable suit according to its silhouette, because this is general impression of appearance, if it does not fit, it can be finalized later.
However, after choosing how to choose between fit and silhouette to achieve balance, this is another derivative issue to consider when shopping for new clothes.
What is standard of conformity and what is basis of sound judgments?
01, shoulder
An important property of shoulder fit is that the line of shoulder remains level and intersection point of rotator cuff coincides with tip of shoulder for maximum stability.
If shoulders of jacket are too narrow, you will find that your actual shoulders push fabric close to armhole outwards and fabric will shift and pile up along shoulder line after being pulled tight. , forming an unnatural rise.
Obviously, final effect is to destroy line of shoulder, which should be flat.
If shoulders are too wide and exceed your actual shoulder width, then you need to go back to see if silhouette matches your expectations or is beautiful enough.
If there is no problem, provided that shoulder pads and cotton for shoulders can ensure that line between edge of top shoulder and your actual shoulder is straight and clean, and it just "hangs" on the shoulder.
After all, not everyone has a perfect figure. I always believe that suit should be modified based on shape of body, and not blindly chasing to completely fit curves of body. Ready for it?).
Whether a suit can make you decent is another story, but you should avoid being rude and timid, right?
02, collar
When at rest or within a reasonable range of motion (pockets, arm waving, etc.), collar of jacket should fit snugly around neck so that back remains flat and clean without wrinkles when standing naturally.
If you wear a shirt in a serious way, collar of jacket should be close to collar of shirt, and density between them should be controlled within 1 cm, which is enough to fit with finger, but after extraction Guaranteed recovery.
As a rule, collar of jacket covers part of collar of shirt (about 3~5 cm), which is more dependent on height of suit collar.
If there is a clear gap between collar of a shirt and collar of a jacket when you are standing or moving normally, it means that there is more fabric left behind the jacket;
There is a relatively large gap between collar of jacket and collar of shirt, which does not fit
Conversely, if too small, top collar will be compact and flush with shirt collar, but back fabric will have horizontal creases due to strength of back of body, which is naturally unappealing.
Remind tailor-made party attendees: when measuring body, it is recommended that you try to follow your normal standing posture and not intentionally straighten your body. At this time, tailor may praise you for your good posture and secretly make you happy, but in the end you suffer.
Because you don't show your usual natural posture,the tailor can easily ignore this variable and tailor garment based on your ideal posture when you are measured and straight. When you normally return to a relaxed, familiar posture, problem of rebellious leadership is exposed.
In many cases, direction of folds is a sign of problems. For example, if there are longitudinal folds in middle of back, this means that there is excess fabric on back. piece and it is not smooth. please contact tailor immediately.
03, bust and waist
The correspondence between bust and waist is more intriguing as it is more a matter of personal preference and orientation.
I don't know if you still remember, but we already mentioned topic of deduction. It is not length of garment or length of pants that determine visual proportions of legs, but position of buttons on top, suggesting ideal position of waistline (i.e. middle button 3-button-2, top button 2 buttons, two-button Paddock cut balance).
Under normal conditions, after unbuttoning a well-fitting jacket and unbuttoning, leave a margin of about 3 cm from yourself. After buttoning button, lapel should fit against chest so that it does not bulge and explode.
And if there are obvious oblique creases near buttons on jacket after buttoning, this indicates that clothes do not fit well, because. the fabric is pulled together.
When making clothes, it is necessary to take into account difference between chest and waist. Perhaps some fitness experts have large breasts and a small waist, so difference between chest and waist is very large. Open fork.
Unfortunately, if you make clothes for them directly according to curves of their body, they will look inappropriate.
The reason you say style orientation is important, you can also look at famous Italian style.
This style of top usually has an X-shaped structure formed by a collar and a rounded hem, and then there will be subtle slant pleats near button at waist to make the silhouette more three-dimensional.
As for X-shaped structure, it has something to do with orientation of Italian tailoring.
Italians tend to have well developed shoulders and chest, prefer natural and smooth shoulders, rely on full chest and back contours to outline ideal body, and generally have a slight tendency to lift chest; waist is more docile, so in synergy, body movements act on silhouette of an inverted triangle, creating folds.
04, sleeve
Sleeves can be measured in combination with your daily activity needs. Under normal circumstances, swinging arms upwards should not damage contour lines of shoulders and chest, and collar should not move back Back of neck.
When a bespoke party is making clothes and trying on body, tailor will usually teach you a few movements and poses to observe variables that need to be adjusted (upright body position) action.
Also unfasten your buttons when you sit down to test if your armhole is comfortable when you raise your arms. If the amount of activity is relatively large, you can make armhole a little higher, which can increase separation between sleeve and other parts and ensure that sleeve can work independently of chest when arm moves normally without affecting other parts of element .
It is best to make mountain of sleeve round and full so that sleeve below armhole can hang naturally and there is no slant folds due to angle of seam of sleeve and body of jacket.
As a rule, there are not so many requirements for volume of activity. The first choice is a sleeve fat that matches line of arm. The size of sleeve fat depends on circumference of your arm.
In terms of sleeve length, it is ideal that suit cuffs open shirt sleeves by about 1-2 cm when arms are naturally lowered.
In addition to above few representative criteria: The hem should not be crooked and incision should be closed in a natural position; length of product should reach joint of thumb and cover at least two thirds of thigh. buttocks< /strong> and so on can explain fit problem.
We just need to know that a comfortable and beautiful figure-changing suit is indeed ultimate goal. However, these standards are basically a set of systems. Please be sure to consider them together. You don't have to fixate on one and refuse to compromise. General consistency and balance are main ideas of integration.
A thousand waters and a thousand mountains is always love, can you pay attention to it?